General notes for the winding and care of clocks

Few people nowadays now how to care for their clocks, in fact some don’t even know how to wind them properly, so here are a few tips. Every clock is unique so these tips can only be generalisations that may not actually apply to your clock; however if you follow them you will certainly do no harm, and that is what is most important to me – the preservation of artefacts from a bygone part of our heritage.

Winding

• On spring driven clocks, turn the key steadily until you feel it come to a positive stop, but don’t force it if you feel abnormal resistance.
• On weight driven clocks, turn the key steadily until the weight is close to, but not at, the top, but don’t force it if you feel abnormal resistance.
• Use the correct size of clock key. Too large a key will damage the square stem. I can supply a new key if yours is wrong.

Setting to time

• Never turn the hands backwards. Doing so will usually damage the striking mechanism.
• Allow each strike and chime to complete before turning the hands forwards again.
• Turn only the minute hand.

Strike and chime synchronisation

• Some types of strike mechanisms will strike the wrong number if the clock is allowed to stop. You can try turning the hands forwards but if this does not solve the problem call a horologist for help.

Moving your pendulum clock

• The pendulum is attached by a fragile spring that is easily damaged by moving the clock unless it is first detached. Most pendulum springs are simply hooked over a part called the back cock, a bracket projecting from the back plate of the movement. Support the weight of the pendulum while gently easing the spring off the back cock, at the same time ensuring that the crutch, the rod that pushes the pendulum from side to side, is gently disengaged from the pendulum. If you can not see how to do it call a horologist.
• Many long case clock movements are not secured into their cases, relying instead on the heavy drive weights and heavy pendulum to prevent them moving. Taking off the weights and pendulum without supporting the movement frequently allows the movement to fall forwards with obvious consequences to its integrity, not to mention the injuries to your head! (This is one of the reasons I always do the dismantling and re-assembly for you.)

Lubrication

• To put it briefly – don’t do it. Only specific parts of the clock need lubrication, parts which the layman can not get to. Other parts are intended to run dry. Oil here will absorb dust, which will form a highly effective grinding paste and slowly destroy your treasured possession.
• Never be tempted to use sprays such as WD40. You may find that it will initially get a faulty clock running again, but as it dries it will form a sort of gummy varnish that will seize all the pivots and corrode the brass. Because this is difficult for me to remove it will cost you more than if you had brought the clock to me in the first place.

Adjustment of pendulum clock rates

• French clocks of the type found in black “marble” or “bronze” cases will have a square section rod about one mm across poking through the dial at the numeral 12. Generally, turning the rod clockwise will increase the rate; and vice versa. Use only the correct size of key, but don’t force it if it will not turn.
• Long case (wrongly called grandfather) clocks will have a knurled nut called the rating nut below the bob; (the bob is the weight at the lower end of the pendulum.) Hold the pendulum so that it does not twist while screwing the nut up to increase the rate or vice versa.
• Most English mantel clocks will have similar adjustment as long case clocks.

Adjustment of balance wheel clock rates

This is done by moving the lever attached to the balance spring, thus altering the effective length of the spring. In older clocks the back of the clock must be opened to gain access to this lever; in newer clocks this lever will extend through a bow shaped hole in the back.

The location of your clock

Pendulum clocks need particular care in setting up; while balance wheel clocks are far more tolerant and need no special precautions.

• The clock needs to be on a level surface. If the ticking sounds uneven or the clock only runs if it is tilted, then it needs adjusting.
• The clock needs to be on a firm surface or it will tilt and spoil its reliability. This particularly applies to long case clocks that stand on wooden floors or carpets. The solution here is to secure the case to the wall.
• Ideally the clock should be located somewhere with a constant temperature. This is rarely possible so it must be accepted that it will run slow at high temperatures and fast at low temperatures.

Service intervals

Ideally your clock should be cleaned and oiled every five years to maintain the best performance and to minimise wear, however they will commonly run for much longer, albeit with the risk of a higher repair bill if left too long. I recommend you leave it no longer than 10 years depending on the type of clock and the environment in which it operates.